Khardung La Pass

This is the thing that surprises travellers the most, so it is worth reading closely.

Khardung La is higher than anywhere else you will go on a standard Ladakh trip. Higher than the lake at Pangong (about 4,350 m), higher than Tso Moriri (about 4,522 m), higher than any Nubra village, and nearly 1,900 metres above Leh. At 5,359 m you have roughly 50 percent of the oxygen you are used to at sea level.

Common pattern. Within 10 to 15 minutes of stopping at the pass, many travellers develop a throbbing headache, mild nausea, dizziness, and breathlessness just walking from the car to the signboard. This is acute mountain sickness in its early form. It eases fast once you descend, but it can escalate if you ignore it.

Rules that work. Limit your time at the summit to around 15 minutes. Do not eat a heavy meal at the cafeteria, tea and biscuits are fine. Do not walk fast. Do not try to hike anywhere above the parking. If someone is struggling, get back in the car immediately and descend to South Pullu or lower.

When to worry. Severe headache that does not respond to paracetamol, repeated vomiting, confusion, breathlessness at rest, or coughing pink or frothy sputum. These are signs of high altitude cerebral or pulmonary oedema. Descend immediately to Leh altitude or lower, this is not something to tough out at 5,300 metres.

Before you come. Plan at least two full nights in Leh before any Nubra trip over the pass, three if you have flown in directly from the plains. Never cross Khardung La on day two of a fly in trip.

A quick summary since travellers still arrive expecting the record.

What the signboard says. 5,602 metres (18,379 feet) and third highest motorable pass in the world. Shirts and caps sold in Leh market pick the same number.

What the data says. Hundreds of GPS surveys, SRTM satellite data, ASTER GDEM data, and Russian topographic mapping all converge on 5,359 metres (17,582 feet). Wikipedia, academic sources, and even the later BRO documentation treat this as the accepted value.

What this makes it globally. The ninth or tenth highest motorable pass in the world, depending on how you count roads and what counts as motorable. Umling La in eastern Ladakh at around 5,882 metres has held the real record since 2017. Mana Pass in Uttarakhand and Marsimik La also sit higher.

Why it matters. It does not matter much. The crossing is still dramatic, the view is still wide, and the altitude is still high enough to knock you flat if you ignore it. The pass earns its reputation through the setting and the history, not the signboard.

Why the old number persists. BRO installed the original sign based on pre GPS estimates, and the local economy around Leh has been built around the claim for decades. There is no particular rush to update a signboard that people come specifically to photograph.

The route, the timing, and the rhythm that works for most travellers.

Leaving Leh. Start by 8 AM, 7:30 AM in peak summer. This avoids the worst of the convoy traffic at the pass, gets you to the top in the best morning light, and leaves enough time to reach Hunder by early afternoon. Later starts mean you hit traffic jams at narrow stretches near the summit.

Stops on the way up. South Pullu check post at around 4,800 m for permit stamping, which can take 10 to 20 minutes depending on queues. Do not eat at South Pullu, the stop is purely administrative.

At the top. Plan a short 15 minute photo break. One shot at the signboard, one stop at the cafeteria for tea, and back in the car.

Descent to Nubra. North Pullu sits on the descent at around 4,900 m, with a couple of small dhabas that are actually decent lunch stops once you are breathing normally again. From there it is a steady drop through Khardung village to Khalsar at around 3,200 m, where the road splits for Diskit or Sumur.

On the way back. Most travellers spend less time at the pass on the return because the altitude pattern has resettled. A quick 10 minute stop is fine. Some skip the summit photo stop entirely and just wave at the signboard, especially if the weather has turned.

Road conditions. Mostly tarred and in reasonable shape from Leh to Khardung village. The high altitude stretch immediately above South Pullu sees slush, potholes, and occasional washouts, especially in July and August. Standard SUVs handle it comfortably. Motorcyclists manage with experience.

A quick note on each of these, because both come up in nearly every planning conversation.

Winter crossings. BRO keeps the pass open through most of winter because the Indian Army supplies Siachen year round. In January and February the road is usually passable within a day or two of major snowfall, though longer closures of three to five days do happen after storms. Crossing in winter is feasible for fit travellers with warm gear and flexible dates, but it is not a casual trip. Plan with a Leh operator who has recent winter experience, never self drive your first winter crossing, and check road status on the morning of travel rather than the day before.

The tunnel. A 5.5 km all weather tunnel under the pass has been discussed for years. As of 2026, BRO has a completed detailed project report, but construction has not started, with BRO citing a funding dispute with the Ladakh UT administration. BRO is now pursuing a defence budget route for the project. The tunnel would cut travel time to Nubra by around an hour and bypass the high altitude stretch entirely. For the next few years at least, the pass remains the route. Do not plan a trip around the tunnel opening, timelines beyond the DPR stage are unclear.

What changes for you. Not much in the short term. Plan for the current pass crossing, keep dates in summer or shoulder months if you want the easiest version, and treat winter access as a specialist variation.

The short practical list that separates a comfortable crossing from a miserable one.

A real down jacket. Rated to at least minus 5°C, not a fleece or a hoodie. Wind chill at the top is serious even in July.

Windproof shell. The wind is constant at the summit, a down layer alone gets punched through in five minutes.

Gloves and a woollen cap. Hands and ears go numb fast at 5,359 m.

Polarised sunglasses. Snow and high altitude UV are brutal together. Sunburn on eyes (photokeratitis) is a real risk on long exposure.

SPF 50 sunscreen. Apply before you leave Leh, not at the top. Cheek and nose burn happen fast here.

Paper permit copies. Four or five. The South Pullu check post keeps one. Phones freeze in the cold, paper is safer.

A water bottle, half full. Full bottles leak in cold, and you do not want a lot of liquid at the top. Small sips on the descent matter more.

A small snack. Biscuits or chocolate. Heavy meals are a bad idea at this altitude, light sugar helps.

Diamox only if prescribed. Talk to your doctor before the trip, not at the pass.

A sick bag. Quietly useful for the descent if someone in the car got a strong headache at the top.

The patterns that cause the most trouble on this crossing.

Crossing on day one or two of a fly in trip. The single biggest mistake. If you land in Leh today, do not cross the pass tomorrow. Plan a minimum of two full nights in Leh at 3,500 m first, three if you can spare it.

Lingering at the top for photos. Ten photographs instead of one will not make the memory better, it will make you feel worse. Get your shots quickly and head back to the car.

Eating heavy food at the cafeteria. Tempting because it is cold and you are tired. A bad idea because altitude slows digestion and you are likely to feel nauseous on the descent. Keep it to tea and biscuits.

Assuming the old altitude claim. Some travellers are disappointed when they learn Khardung La is not actually the world's highest motorable road. Do not let a number change the experience.

Self driving in winter without experience. The pass is open, but icy switchbacks and narrow cliff edges are not a place to learn. First winter crossing should always be with an experienced local driver.

Ignoring the check post at South Pullu. The army is serious about permit checks. No permit means you turn around, even if you have driven three hours from Leh.

Leaving without fuel. No reliable pump between Leh and Diskit on the Nubra side. Fill up completely in Leh before heading out.