Marhi
A seasonal cluster of highway dhabas at 3,360 metres on the Manali to Rohtang road, known as the last food stop before the pass, a snow activity spot when the road first opens in May, and the point where the mountain highway leaves the trees behind and enters high altitude open terrain.
- Manali · Highway Stop · Dhabas
- ~3,360 m / ~11,020 ft
- ~35 km from Manali
- About 1.5 hours by road
- May to October (seasonal)
What makes it special
Marhi is not a village. It is not really a destination either. What it is, honestly, is a cluster of seasonal dhabas on the side of a mountain highway at 3,360 metres, where everyone heading to Rohtang Pass stops to eat Maggi and catch their breath. And somehow, that is exactly what makes it worth knowing about.
The settlement sits roughly 35 km from Manali on the Leh Manali Highway, about 16 km before Rohtang Pass. It appears after you pass Gulaba and the Rahala waterfall stretch, at the point where the treeline starts thinning and the road enters open, exposed terrain. The landscape shifts here. Below Marhi, you are in forest. Above Marhi, you are in high altitude scrub and snow. The dhabas mark the transition zone, and they have been doing so since at least the 1950s, when the first roadside tea stalls started serving truckers and travellers headed towards Lahaul.
Wikipedia describes Marhi as a "shanty town of roadside restaurants," which sounds harsh but is not inaccurate. When the road is open, usually from May to October or November, roughly 20 to 30 seasonal dhabas line the highway. They sell Maggi noodles, parathas, rajma chawal, momos, chai, and basic snacks. The food is simple and expensive by plains standards, because everything has to be hauled up the mountain road. But after an hour of hairpin bends from Manali, a plate of hot rajma and a cup of sweet tea at this altitude genuinely hits different. That is not travel brochure talk. It is just true.
In early season, when the road opens till Marhi but Rohtang itself is still being cleared by BRO, Marhi becomes the de facto snow destination. Snow lingers here longer than at Gulaba because of the higher altitude, and local operators set up snow scooter rides, skiing, sledging, and snow tubing right beside the dhabas. Snow suits, boots, and gloves are available for rent. The activities are informal and basic, not resort level, but for families and first timers, it is an accessible way to spend time on real snow at a significant altitude.
Since the Atal Tunnel opened in 2020, through traffic to Lahaul and Leh no longer needs to cross Rohtang or stop at Marhi. This has shifted the crowd composition. Marhi is now mostly visited by tourists doing Rohtang day trips from Manali, not by long haul travellers and truckers. The settlement is quieter than it used to be on non peak days, but on busy weekends in June, the highway near the dhabas still gets congested.
One thing to understand: Marhi shuts down completely in winter. When the road above Gulaba closes, usually by November, the dhaba operators pack up and move back to their villages. The structures are temporary. In winter, Marhi is buried under snow, and nothing is open. There is no off season version. If the road is open, Marhi is alive. If the road is closed, Marhi does not exist as a place you can visit.
Quick answers
- Is Marhi worth visiting on the way to Rohtang?
- Marhi is worth stopping at as part of a Rohtang day trip, not as a standalone destination. It is the only proper food stop between Manali and Rohtang Pass, and in early season (May to early June), the snow here is often the best accessible snow on the highway. Plan 20 to 40 minutes for a meal, longer if you want snow activities. Do not drive 1.5 hours from Manali just for Marhi alone.
- Is there snow at Marhi?
- Often yes, especially in May and early June when the road first opens. At 3,360 metres, snow stays longer here than at lower stops like Gulaba. Snow scooter rides, sledging, and tubing are available from local operators. By mid summer, the snow melts and the meadows turn green. In autumn, early snow may return before the road closes.
- Do I need a Rohtang permit to reach Marhi?
- Yes. Marhi is above the Gulaba checkpoint. A valid Rohtang Pass vehicle permit, booked online, is required to drive past Gulaba. No permits are issued on Tuesdays.
Quick facts
Everything you need to know at a glance.
At a glance
- Altitude
- Roughly 3,360 m (about 11,020 ft). This is significantly higher than Manali (2,050 m) and above the treeline.
- Location
- On the Leh Manali Highway between Gulaba and Rohtang Pass, Kullu district, Himachal Pradesh. Above the treeline on the Pir Panjal range.
- Nearest town
- Manali, roughly 35 km by road. Gulaba is about 12 to 15 km below. Rohtang Pass is about 16 km above.
- Time needed
- 20 to 40 minutes for a meal stop. Up to 1 hour if doing snow activities. Part of a Rohtang day trip, not a standalone visit.
- Known for
- Seasonal dhabas serving the Rohtang highway. Maggi and rajma chawal at 3,300+ metres. Snow activities in early season. Last food stop before Rohtang Pass. Alpine meadows in summer.
- Entry fee
- None at Marhi itself. A Rohtang Pass vehicle permit (booked online, currently around Rs 500 to 550) is required to drive past the Gulaba checkpoint and reach Marhi.
On the ground
- Mobile network
- Very weak to none. Most carriers drop signal above Gulaba. Do not rely on calls, data, or UPI at Marhi.
- Parking
- Roadside. No formal lot. Space fills up on busy weekends. Arrive early if visiting on a Saturday or Sunday in June.
- Food
- 20 to 30 seasonal dhabas serving Maggi, parathas, rajma chawal, momos, siddu, and chai. Cash only. Higher prices than Manali. Hot food at altitude.
- ATMs
- None. Nearest ATMs are on Mall Road in Manali, 35 km below. Carry all the cash you need before leaving Manali.
- Washrooms
- Basic shared washrooms at some dhabas. Quality varies. Not all stalls have them.
- Permits
- Rohtang Pass vehicle permit required to drive past Gulaba. Booked online. No permits on Tuesdays. Without a permit, you cannot reach Marhi by road.
- Altitude warning
- 3,360 m is real altitude. Headaches and mild breathlessness are common for people coming directly from lower elevations. Walk slowly, drink water, do not overexert in snow.
Seasonal weather
- Nov to Apr5°-10°Winter (Nov to Apr)
- May to Jun12°-2°Early Summer (May to Jun)
- Jul to Aug15°4°Monsoon (Jul to Aug)
- Sep to Oct12°-4°Autumn (Sep to Oct)
Suitable for
- Couples — suitable
- Families — suitable
- Seniors — with some care
- Solo — suitable
- First-timers — suitable
- Pet-friendly — with some care
How to reach Marhi
1 approach route, with seasonal access.
From Manali Bus Stand to Marhi
Usually May to October or November, depending on when BRO clears and closes the road each year. In early season, the road may open only up to Marhi before the full pass is cleared.- Distance
- About 35 km
- Time
- 1 to 1.5 hours by car or taxi
- Road
- Paved two lane highway. Narrow above Gulaba. Winding with hairpin bends. Above the treeline for the last stretch. Maintained by BRO.
The drive follows the Manali to Rohtang Pass highway. You climb through Kothi village, past the Gulaba checkpoint (where Rohtang permits are checked), past the Rahala waterfall, and then through increasingly open, treeless terrain until the dhabas of Marhi appear. The road is paved and maintained by BRO, but it is narrow in stretches above Gulaba, winding, and busy with Rohtang traffic in peak season. A full day Rohtang taxi from Manali costs roughly Rs 3,000 to 5,000, depending on vehicle type. Start early. The highway gets clogged after 9 AM on busy days, and the permit checkpoint at Gulaba adds time.
Best time to visit
Season by season, so you can plan around the weather rather than hope.
- Recommended
Early Summer (May to June)
May to June
Snow on the ground, dhabas steaming, the best window
- Snow
- Often present, especially in May. Melting by late June.
- Day temperature
- 2 to 12°C
- Road condition
- Recently cleared by BRO. Good when dry.
- Crowds
- Moderate to high on weekends.
- Activities
- Snow scooter, sledging, tubing, food
This is when Marhi is at its most interesting. The road opens progressively from Manali, and BRO often clears the highway up to Marhi a few days or weeks before the full Rohtang Pass opens. During this window, Marhi becomes the highest accessible point on the highway, and the snow on the ground is often substantial. Snow activities are in full swing. The dhabas are open and busy, the air is sharp and cold, and the combination of hot food and fresh snow at this altitude is the experience that most people remember from Marhi. By late June, much of the snow at Marhi has melted.
Monsoon (July to September)
July to September
Green meadows, fewer crowds, but monsoon road risk
- Snow
- None at Marhi level. Possible higher up near Rohtang.
- Day temperature
- 6 to 15°C
- Road condition
- Slippery in rain. Landslide risk on higher sections.
- Crowds
- Lower than summer.
The snow has mostly melted by July. Marhi's meadows turn green, and the landscape is wide and open. Monsoon rains can make the road above Gulaba slippery and occasionally trigger landslides on the higher stretches. Marhi itself is not landslide prone, but the road above and below it can be affected. Fewer tourists than in May and June. The dhabas are open and less crowded. If you are driving to Rohtang in monsoon, Marhi is a good break to check weather conditions before continuing up.
Autumn (October to November)
October to November
Sharp light, quiet road, the season's closing window
- Snow
- Possible from late October. Unpredictable.
- Day temperature
- 0 to 12°C
- Road condition
- Good when dry. Road may close anytime in November.
- Crowds
- Very low.
The monsoon clears, and the mountain views from Marhi are at their sharpest. The Pir Panjal peaks are visible without haze, and the light at this altitude in October is golden and clean. The dhabas thin out as operators start winding down for the season. Early snow can appear in late October. By November, the road usually closes and Marhi shuts down. If you catch a clear October day, the drive from Gulaba to Marhi with the mountains lit up is the best visual stretch on the entire Rohtang road.
- Closed
Winter (December to April)
December to April
Road closed, settlement abandoned, snow covers everything
- Snow
- Fully covered.
- Road condition
- Closed above Gulaba.
- Access
- None for tourists.
- Dhabas
- Shut down. Operators leave for the season.
Marhi is completely inaccessible. The road above Gulaba is closed. The dhabas are dismantled or buried under snow. There is nothing here in winter. Do not plan a trip to Marhi between December and April.
Things to see & do
3 things worth your time at Marhi.
Eating at the dhabas
20 to 40 minutesThis is the main reason anyone stops at Marhi. The dhabas here serve as the only proper food stop between Manali and Rohtang Pass. The menu is similar across most stalls: Maggi noodles (plain, egg, vegetable), parathas, rajma chawal, fried rice, momos, and endless chai. Some dhabas also serve siddu, a local steamed bread stuffed with walnuts or poppy seeds. The food is basic, the prices are higher than Manali, and the experience of eating hot rajma at 3,300 metres with snow on the ground is something you remember. Eat before you continue up to Rohtang. There is nothing above Marhi.
Snow activities in early season
30 minutes to 1 hourIn early season, when the road opens to Marhi but Rohtang has not fully cleared, snow activities run here. Local operators set up snow scooter rides, basic skiing on short slopes, sledging, and snow tubing on the meadows beside the highway. Equipment and snow suits are available for rent, usually Rs 300 to 500 per outfit, and activity rides cost Rs 500 to 1,000 each. Negotiate. Quality is informal. It is fun for a quick half hour, especially for families, but do not expect groomed runs or organized instruction.
Meadow walk and photography
10 to 20 minutesAbove the dhaba cluster, the landscape opens into wide alpine meadows. When the snow has melted, these turn green and offer some of the widest mountain views on the entire Rohtang road. The Pir Panjal peaks line the horizon, and the silence at this altitude is different from anything lower down. You can walk into the meadows for ten minutes and feel genuinely remote, which is odd given that you are standing next to a highway. Good photography light in the morning.
Know before you visit Marhi
The practical bits, from people who have been.
Rohtang permit is requiredRohtang permit required. Book online the day before. No permits on Tuesdays.
Marhi is above the Gulaba checkpoint. You need a valid Rohtang Pass vehicle permit to drive past Gulaba and reach Marhi. The permit is booked online the day before your visit. The fee is generally around Rs 500 to 550 per vehicle, though travellers should check the current rate as it can change. Without a permit, you will be turned back at Gulaba, which is roughly 15 km below Marhi.
On Tuesdays, no Rohtang permits are issued (the pass and road are closed for maintenance). Do not plan a Marhi trip for Tuesday.
What to wear and carryProper jacket, cash, sunscreen. Snow gear available for rent.
At 3,360 metres, Marhi is noticeably colder and windier than Manali. Even in summer, temperatures can drop to single digits, and the wind chill makes it feel colder. Carry a proper jacket, not just a hoodie. If you plan to do snow activities, snow suits and boots are available for rent at Marhi, usually Rs 300 to 500.
Carry cash. Nothing at Marhi runs on cards or UPI. The mobile signal is weak to nonexistent for most carriers. Rs 1,000 to 2,000 in cash covers food and snow gear rental. Carry more if you want snow scooter rides.
Sunscreen and sunglasses matter. UV exposure at this altitude is stronger than it feels, especially when reflecting off snow. People underestimate this consistently.
Common mistakes at MarhiNot a destination on its own, altitude hits fast, no digital payments work.
Treating Marhi as a destination. It is a food stop and a snow stop, not a place you build a trip around. Plan it as one part of a Rohtang day trip from Manali. If you drive 1.5 hours just for Marhi, you may wonder what the fuss was about. If you stop at Marhi as part of the full Rohtang drive, it feels like a welcome break.
Ignoring altitude. 3,360 metres is real altitude. If you drove up from Manali (2,050 m) without stopping, you have gained over 1,300 metres in an hour. Headaches, mild breathlessness, and nausea are common, especially in people who are not used to mountains. Walk slowly. Drink water. Do not rush into snow activities the moment you arrive.
No cash. Repeat: nothing here takes cards. UPI rarely works because the signal is too weak. Carry enough for food, activities, and snow gear rental before leaving Manali.
Expecting Marhi to be open when Rohtang is closed for the season. If the road is closed above Gulaba in winter, Marhi does not exist as a visitable place. Check road status before making plans.
Nearby attractions
Other places worth the detour.
Rohtang Pass
~16 km above Marhi
The 3,978 m pass connecting Kullu to Lahaul. Marhi is the last food and rest stop before Rohtang. From here, the road climbs steeply through 16 km of exposed, treeless terrain to the pass. Most travellers eat at Marhi, then continue up.
Gulaba
~12 to 15 km below Marhi on the same highway
The Rohtang permit checkpoint and popular snow point. You pass through Gulaba on the way up to Marhi. In winter when the Rohtang road is closed, Gulaba is the highest accessible point. In summer, it is a quick viewpoint stop.
Rahala Waterfall
~3 to 5 km below Marhi on the highway
A glacier fed waterfall right beside the highway, between Gulaba and Marhi. A five minute pull over. Best in early summer when glacier melt is heaviest and the cascade runs strong.
Solang Valley
~25 to 28 km below, via the Palchan turnoff
Manali's main adventure hub with ropeway, paragliding, and organised snow activities. A different kind of stop from Marhi, lower in altitude and more commercial. Most Rohtang day trips pass the Solang turnoff.
Atal Tunnel
Different route entirely, accessed from below Solang
The highway tunnel connecting Manali to Lahaul Valley without crossing Rohtang. Since 2020, through travellers to Lahaul and Leh use the tunnel instead of the pass. For day trippers doing Rohtang for snow and views, the old highway through Marhi is still the route.
Kothi Village
~20 km below Marhi on the highway
A quiet village on the Rohtang highway below Gulaba, known for the Beas River gorge viewpoint and a local temple. A brief stop on the drive up.
Common questions about Marhi
How far is Marhi from Manali?
Roughly 35 km from Manali Bus Stand, about 1 to 1.5 hours by car depending on traffic. The drive follows the Manali to Rohtang Pass highway through Kothi, Gulaba, and past Rahala waterfall.
Do I need a Rohtang permit to reach Marhi?
Yes. Marhi is above the Gulaba checkpoint where Rohtang permits are checked. You need a valid Rohtang Pass vehicle permit to drive past Gulaba and reach Marhi. Book it online the day before.
Is Marhi open in winter?
No. Marhi is a seasonal settlement. When the Rohtang highway closes above Gulaba, usually by November, the dhabas shut down and the operators leave. The area is buried under snow and completely inaccessible to tourists until the road reopens, usually in May.
Is there snow at Marhi?
Often, yes, especially in May and early June when the road first opens. At 3,360 metres, snow lingers here longer than at Gulaba. Snow activities run during this window. By mid to late summer, the snow melts and the meadows turn green. In autumn, early snow may return before the road closes.
What food is available at Marhi?
The dhabas serve Maggi noodles, parathas, rajma chawal, fried rice, momos, and chai. Some serve siddu, a local Himachali bread. Prices are higher than Manali because everything is transported up the highway. Expect to pay Rs 100 to 250 for a basic meal. Cash only.
How much do snow activities cost at Marhi?
Snow scooter rides cost roughly Rs 500 to 1,000 per ride. Skiing and sledging are in a similar range. Snow suit and boot rental is usually Rs 300 to 500. All prices are negotiable. Carry cash. No card machines or reliable UPI signal.
Is Marhi a good alternative when Rohtang Pass is closed?
It depends on what you mean by closed. If Rohtang is closed for the winter (November to April), Marhi is also inaccessible. But in May, when the road opens progressively, BRO often clears the highway up to Marhi before the full pass opens. During this window, Marhi becomes the highest accessible point and is genuinely good for snow. If Rohtang is closed on a specific day due to weather, Marhi may still be reachable.
Can I visit Marhi and Rohtang Pass in the same day?
Yes, this is how most people do it. Marhi is on the way to Rohtang. Stop for a meal or snow activities on the way up or down. The full day trip from Manali covers Kothi, Gulaba, Rahala waterfall, Marhi, and Rohtang.
Is Marhi suitable for families with children?
Yes. The dhabas are easy to reach from the road, and the snow activities are gentle enough for children. The altitude (3,360 m) is significant though. If anyone in the family has altitude sensitivity, watch for headaches and breathlessness. Do not let children overexert in the snow. The drive up is winding and some children get carsick.
Is there accommodation at Marhi?
Not in any conventional sense. The dhabas are daytime eating stops, not hotels. A few operators occasionally offer very basic room or tent stays, but quality is unpredictable. For a proper night's sleep, stay in Manali and drive up for a day trip.
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