Hatu Peak

This is the whole reason to come. Stand at the summit clearing and let your eyes follow the mountain line around you. To the northeast, the high peaks of the Srikhand and Kinnaur ranges catch the early sun. Below and around you, the valleys of Rohru and Theog drop away, with the orchards of Kumarsain and Kotgarh scattered across the slopes. To the southeast, the snow line continues toward the Uttarakhand border. On a perfectly clear morning the layers of ranges go deep enough that you stop counting. The best time is between 7 and 10 AM, when the light is angled and the peaks are sharp. Bring a warm jacket even in May. The wind at the top is cold and constant.

The temple at the summit is small and quiet, built in the Kathkuni style with interlocking wood and stone. Local beliefs tie it to Mandodari and to Goddess Kali. The carved wooden panels are old and detailed, with motifs that mix mainstream Hindu iconography with local Himachali folk traditions. Next to the temple is the Bhima Chulha, a natural rock formation shaped like a stove, believed by locals to have been used by the Pandavas during their exile. Remove your shoes before entering. There is no formal shoe counter, so keep them where you can see them. The temple is generally closed for 3 to 4 months in deep winter when snow reaches several feet.

The 7 km trek from Narkanda is one of the best short treks near Shimla. The trail follows the road initially, then cuts through switchbacks via forest shortcuts. You walk through deodar, fir, spruce, and blue pine, with the canopy thick enough that the temperature drops noticeably inside the forest. The trail is not technical and any reasonably fit person, including children aged 7 and up, can manage it. Start early. Carry 2 litres of water, snacks, a warm layer, and a raincoat in monsoon season. The descent takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. The trek is open year round, but in deep winter (December to February) the path can be snow covered and significantly harder.

If trekking is not your plan, the road to the top is an experience in itself. It is narrow, with steep gradients and tight switchbacks. At some points, the incline is enough to make your engine strain audibly. An experienced driver in a good condition vehicle handles it fine. If you are new to driving steep mountain switchbacks, taking a local taxi is a much safer option. Hire one from Narkanda market for about Rs 800 round trip with waiting time. The drive itself passes through dense forest, and on the upper stretches, the trees thin out and the views start opening up before you reach the clearing at the top.

About a kilometre past the temple, through a stretch of oak forest, you reach Jor Bagh (also called Jau Bagh), a grassy alpine meadow that works well for a picnic or, if you have the gear, overnight camping. The meadow is quiet, flat, and sheltered by the surrounding forest. In summer, the grass is green and the breeze is cold and clean. In winter, it is snow covered. Camping is possible here in summer months (May to October), but avoid monsoon (July and August) and carry your own gear. There is no facility. Just forest, grass, and sky.